[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_text admin_label=”TITLE: Solutions Manual ” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_accordion admin_label=”Solutions Manual Content” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″][et_pb_accordion_item title=”22 Troubleshooting Questions” open=”on” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Thank you for your business and for your email.\u00a0 My name is {{{Sender.FirstName}}}, I will help you.<\/p>\n
There are a number of things that can cause the condition that you are experiencing. To help me figure out how to help you, please answer the following questions as best as you can.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”22 Question \u2013 difficult\/rude customers not wanting to answer questions: Headache analogy” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n
It’s unfortunate to hear that you aren’t prepared to take just a few minutes for me to help you.\u00a0 I understand that I have asked you a lot of questions, but as an analogy, imagine that you have a bad headache and go to the doctor because of it.\u00a0 There are a LOT of things that can cause a headache i.e. atmospheric pressure, brain swelling, a tumor, poisoning, a structural\/alignment issue of the spine, stress, etc.\u00a0 For one to tell the doctor that one has a headache and the doctor to simply prescribe a solution without doing an analysis, will more than likely prevent the headache from being rectified.<\/p>\n
Cloudy water is like having a headache, in that there are a LOT of things that can cause it, hence the numerous questions. For example, cloudy water can be cause by:<\/p>\n
I can suggest a solution to you without asking any questions, but it would be like a doctor prescribing an anti-inflammatory for a headache, when in-fact there is a brain tumor that is causing the headache.\u00a0 If we don’t ask questions, we can’t serve you properly.<\/p>\n
However, please find below the causes and solutions for hazy\/cloudy water:<\/p>\n
#1 Dirty Filters.<\/strong>\u00a0Filters can only hold so much, and when they are full, debris stays in the spa water making it cloudy. Proper filter cleaning practices are essential to maintaining clear water. For detailed instructions on how to clean your hot tub filters you can view our video on filter cleaning\u00a0https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=itfOEbsnHYg&t=14s<\/a><\/p>\n #2 Bather Overload<\/strong>. Four people in a hot tub is the equivalent of 200 people in a swimming pool. If bathers don\u2019t shower before using the spa, they are using it as a bathtub and introducing contaminants to the water which can easily overwhelm your spa and cause cloudy water. To minimize this from happening, insist that bathers shower THOROUGHLY before using your spa.<\/p>\n Changing the water is usually the fastest way to remedy cloudy water caused by bather overload. If that is not possible, increase filtration times, install clean filters, shock the water, use a water clarifier, and continue this regimen until the water clears. As the water becomes clearer, the filter will begin to become soiled and may require additional cleaning or replacement.<\/p>\n #3 High pH or Alkalinity.<\/strong>\u00a0Water that has high pH or high alkalinity can quickly become cloudy, or may even come out of the tap looking hazy. Balancing the alkalinity and pH to proper ranges will clear the water.<\/p>\n #4 Metals in the water.<\/strong> When metals in the water such as copper and iron begin to rust, the result is discolored cloudy water that often appears green or yellow. To clear it, shock the water, wait a minimum of 24 hours and if the colour persists, shock the water again and wait at least another 24 hours. Repeat as necessary, multiple applications may be required.<\/p>\n #5 Old Filters.<\/strong>\u00a0As filters age, the 20-micron holes in the fabric get worn out and become larger. While a filter may look good to the naked eye, a one-year-old filter can be worn to the point where it will allow twice as much debris to pass through it as it did when it was new, causing the water to remain cloudy. A filter should be replaced after at most a year of use, or a dozen cleanings, whichever comes first.<\/p>\n #6 Not enough sanitizer.<\/strong>\u00a0When sanitizer levels are low, impurities that are introduced to the water from bathers or other environmental sources can overwhelm the sanitizer, resulting in cloudy and potentially microbiologically unsafe water. Maintaining sanitizer levels as per regulatory agency guidelines will prevent this. #8 Debris in the water.<\/strong>\u00a0Contaminants introduced from creams, deodorant and other body-care products, can be so small that they pass right through the filter, causing cloudy water. This can be corrected by using a water clarifier that will collect the debris into a larger mass that can then be trapped by the filter, allowing the water to clear.<\/p>\n #9 Hot tub contamination.<\/strong>\u00a0Mould, algae, fungus, biofilm or bacteria can cause cloudy water. You will need to decontaminate your spa. Please see this video to explain the process\u00a0https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=HvU4lcpjgBQ<\/a>\u00a0 I am also happy to send you a step-by-step instruction, should this be the means to solving your struggle.<\/p>\n #10 Filling with turbid water.<\/strong> This happens most often when filling with water from a lake or a well. The water can contain tannins or oxidized metals such as iron oxide that can make the water cloudy. Shocking the water will clear it up, and you can help to prevent this from occurring by using a garden hose prefilter like Spa Marvel\u2019s X10 Water Filter to fill the spa.<\/p>\n Thank you for your business.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Absentee Spa Owners” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Spa Marvel is a favorite amongst absentee spa owners: people like cottagers and vacation homeowners whose spas are not being used and who may not be available to add sanitizer for weeks or months on end. Spa Marvel will maintain the water during their absence, even though no sanitizer has been added.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Ahhsome Problems” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n The purge product you used left a whole lot of gunk behind that you had to clean off of the shell of the tub when you drained it.\u00a0That same gunk also clings to the inside of the plumbing, where you cannot clean it out. When you refill the spa the gunk in the pipes will dissolve into the water and will reappear at the water line.<\/p>\n Just keep wiping it off and it will eventually all be gone. In future, you can use Spa Marvel Cleanser which does an equally good job, without the mess.<\/p>\n Foam is caused by residual from the purge product you used. It comes from two sources:<\/p>\n In future, use Spa Marvel Cleanser, it cleans just as well, but doesn\u2019t leave a mess behind.<\/p>\n Ahhsome is a very good cleaner but uses a bit of a \u2018show\u2019 to make it appear as though it is doing more than it really is.<\/p>\n Ahhsome adds foaming agents and sequestering agents to their product. The sequestering agents work the way that spa water clarifiers like Polysheen and Pure Blue do, grabbing small particles of debris that have been cleaned out of the plumbing, and also particles that had already been in the water, causing them to clump together to form scum. Ahhsome also wants you to let the filter cartridge float in the water while using their product, which will introduce more debris from the filter fabric to the water, which contributes to the volume of scum.\u00a0 By directing the consumer to leave the aerators open, it causes the scum to build up on the spa walls and on top of the foam.<\/p>\n Which brings me to the next thing that Ahhsome does to add sizzle to their steak; they add foaming agents to the water and tell you to keep the aerators on so that you see massive amounts of foam, on top of which the scum will sit.<\/p>\n Consumers see the foam and scum and think that it was all caused by debris from the plumbing, but it is not.<\/p>\n If you\u2019ve ever used Ahhsome, you\u2019ll be familiar with the mess it makes- sticky scum all over the spa walls as the water is drained, and the scum needs to be wiped out.\u00a0 But what can\u2019t get wiped out is the scum that sits on the walls of the plumbing as the water is drained. When the spa is filled back up, the scum in the plumbing, along with the residual foaming agents in that scum, mixes with the fresh water and causes foaming in the new water.\u00a0 We figured this out after Spa Marvel customers told us that they started with Spa Marvel and were experiencing foaming issues.\u00a0 Turns out that they had used Ahhsome instead of Spa Marvel Cleanser prior to draining and filling, Spa Marvel\u2019s inherent cleaners removed the scum that was on the plumbing walls, and that is where the foam came from. I tested this in my own spa and had foaming, even after performing a second complete drain and fill the same day, in an effort to get rid of the foam.<\/p>\n In summary, Ahhsome is a great plumbing cleaner, it makes itself look like it does more than it actually does, it is a pain to clean up, and can cause foaming in the water of the new fill. Spa Marvel Cleanser cleans just as well, but without the mess.<\/p>\n The product you are using is a very good cleaner but uses a bit of a \u2018show\u2019 to make it appear as though it is doing more than it really is by adding foaming agents and sequestering agents to their product. The sequestering agents work the way that spa water clarifiers like Polysheen and Pure Blue do, grabbing small particles of debris that have been cleaned out of the plumbing, and also particles that had already been in the water, causing them to clump together to form scum. These cleaners also want you to let the filter cartridge float in the water while using their product, which will introduce more debris from the filter fabric to the water, which contributes to the volume of scum.\u00a0 By directing the consumer to leave the aerators open, it causes the scum to build up on the spa walls and on top of the foam.<\/p>\n They also add foaming agents to the water and tell you to keep the aerators on so that you see massive amounts of foam, on top of which the scum will sit. Consumers see the foam and scum and think that it was all caused by debris from the plumbing, but not all of it is.<\/p>\n If you\u2019ve ever used products like this before, you\u2019ll be familiar with the mess it makes – sticky scum all over the spa walls as the water is drained, and the scum needs to be wiped out.\u00a0 But what it can\u2019t wipe out is the scum that sits on the walls of the plumbing as the water is drained. When the spa is filled back up, the scum in the plumbing, along with the residual foaming agents in that scum, mixes with the fresh water and causes foaming in the new water.\u00a0 We figured this out after Spa Marvel customers told us that they started with Spa Marvel and were experiencing foaming issues.<\/p>\n Turns out that they had used a cleanser with foaming and sequestering agents instead of Spa Marvel Cleanser prior to draining and filling, Spa Marvel\u2019s inherent cleaners removed the scum that was on the plumbing walls, and that is where the foam came from. I tested this in my own spa and had foaming, even after performing a second complete drain and fill the same day, in an effort to get rid of the foam.<\/p>\n In summary, foaming and sequestering agents do clean the plumbing it is a pain to clean up, and can cause foaming in the water of the new fill. Spa Marvel Cleanser cleans just as well, but without the mess.<\/p>\n Ahhsome is a good cleaner but uses a bit of a \u2018show\u2019 to make it appear as though it is doing more than it really is.<\/p>\n Ahhsome adds foaming agents and sequestering agents to their product. The sequestering agents work the way that spa water clarifiers like Polysheen and Pure Blue do, grabbing small particles of debris that have been cleaned out of the plumbing, and also particles that had already been in the water, causing them to clump together to form scum. Ahhsome also wants you to let the filter cartridge float in the water while using their product, which will introduce more debris from the filter fabric to the water, which contributes to the volume of scum.\u00a0 By directing the consumer to leave the aerators open, it causes the scum to build up on the spa walls and on top of the foam.<\/p>\n Which brings me to the next thing that Ahhsome does to add sizzle to their steak; they add foaming agents to the water and tell you to keep the aerators on so that you see massive amounts of foam, on top of which the scum will sit. \u00a0Consumers see the foam and scum and think that it was all caused by debris from the plumbing, but it is not.<\/p>\n If you\u2019ve ever used Ahhsome, you\u2019ll be familiar with the mess it makes- sticky scum all over the spa walls as the water is drained, and the scum needs to be wiped out.\u00a0 But what can\u2019t get wiped out is the scum that sits on the walls of the plumbing as the water is drained. When the spa is filled back up, the scum in the plumbing, along with the residual foaming agents in that scum, mixes with the fresh water and causes foaming in the new water.\u00a0 We figured this out after Spa Marvel customers told us that they started with Spa Marvel and were experiencing foaming issues.\u00a0 Turns out that they had used Ahhsome instead of Spa Marvel Cleanser prior to draining and filling, Spa Marvel\u2019s inherent cleaners removed the scum that was on the plumbing walls, and that is where the foam came from. I tested this in my own spa and had foaming, even after performing a second complete drain and fill the same day, in an effort to get rid of the foam.<\/p>\n In summary, Ahhsome is a good cleaner, it makes itself look like it does more than it actually does, it is a pain to clean up, and can cause foaming in the water of the new fill. Spa Marvel Cleanser cleans just as well, but without the mess.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Alkalinity \u2013 Is very high and won\u2019t come down” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Alkalinity is fine between 80-150, and ideally should be 120-150.\u00a0 Right now, alkalinity shows maximum on your test strips, which is 240, but it may actually be much higher, like 900. You can add pH reducer and it will continue to show 240, but in reality, it is slowly coming down from 900, but is still above 240.<\/p>\n To lower it, assume that your alkalinity is at 240 and add enough pH reducer to get it down to 150. One tablespoon of pH reducer will lower alkalinity about 10 ppm in 250 gallons of water. (If you need help with the math, let me know how much water your spa holds and I\u2019ll calculate it for you.)<\/p>\n Wait a MINIMUM of 2 hours, and test again. If it still shows 240, then add the reducer again, wait at least 2 hours, test, etc. Repeat this until the alkalinity starts to come down.\u00a0 Once it begins to move, then reduce the amount you add to get it to settle into between 120-150.<\/p>\n You may want to consider using muriatic acid rather than pH reducer. One tablespoon of muriatic acid in 250 gallons of water will lower alkalinity by 10 ppm.\u00a0 It should be diluted in a pail of water and poured around the perimeter of the spa with the jets on. Wait 2 hours and retest.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Alkalinity \u2013 Increasing alkalinity using increaser” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n 1 tablespoon (15g) of alkalinity increaser to increase alkalinity by 10 PPM in a 250-gallon (or 1,000 litre) spa. Double the dosage for a 500-gallon spa.<\/p>\n Starting at ZERO alkalinity, 8 tablespoons (or \u00bd cup) of alkalinity increaser will bring a 250-gallon spa to 80 PPM (or 1 cup for a 500-gallon spa)<\/p>\n For a spa reading 60 PPM alkalinity, 2 tablespoons will bring it to 80 PPM.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Alkalinity \u2013 My alkalinity is low how do I fix this?” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n When chlorine is mixed with water it turns to chlorous acid. (Bromine turns to bromous acid).\u00a0 The acid brings the alkalinity down. Part of using chlorine or bromine is that you will need to keep the alkalinity in proper ranges.\u00a0When alkalinity is below 80 ppm, the chlorine or bromine don\u2019t work very efficiently, your water can get foamy, and your skin will itch.<\/p>\n Your alkalinity should be maintained between 80-150, ideally between 120-150. Use alkalinity increaser (which is sodium bicarbonate) to bring it up.\u00a0 One tablespoon of alkalinity increaser in 250 gallons of water (15 grams per 1,000 liters) will raise alkalinity about 10 ppm.<\/p>\n Once you have raised the alkalinity, the pH will come up with it, and pH is fine between 7.2-8.4 when using Spa Marvel, as long as the alkalinity is in range.<\/p>\n ALT Ending:\u00a0 <\/strong>Then wait about 24 hours to see what your true pH is reading. In traditional water care it should be in the 7.2-7.8 range, if you are using a product like Spa Marvel<\/a> your acceptable range is 7.2-8.4. Should you be out of range at this point you can adjust as necessary.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Alkalinity \u2013 Lowering alkalinity & pH with Muriatic Acid ” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n 1 tablespoon (15g) of muriatic acid in 250 gallons of water will lower alkalinity by 10 ppm.\u00a0It should be diluted in a pail of water and poured around the perimeter of the spa with the jets on. Wait 2 hours and retest.<\/p>\n Remember that most test equipment shows the alkalinity at a max of 240, so if the alkalinity was really 720, you\u2019re going to have to add the acid a few times before it gets to 240 and you\u2019ll see movement on the test strips.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Amazon \u2013 Rule, Procedures & Problems” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n The Spa Marvel Company is not against our dealers\u2019 selling products on Amazon however there are a few important things to note:<\/p>\n Most of our retail network are in pool and spa retail. A handful of our dealers, are in the service business.\u00a0 Being in the service business where you are maintaining pools and spas, you don\u2019t need to worry about other Spa Marvel vendors. However, Amazon vendors are a greater concern for our spa retailers, i.e. those stores that sell new spas to consumers and are not in the field doing service.\u00a0<\/p>\n To help with this, and to ensure that new spa customers come back to their originating dealer to buy Spa Marvel, we created our Complimentary Jet Warranty Program<\/strong>, a copy of which is attached. In short, the Spa Marvel Company will pay for the cost of replacing jets in a spa should they ever fail. This is a warranty that we underwrite ourselves and is provided at no-charge to our dealers.\u00a0 The crux of it is that to maintain the warranty, the spa owner has to use Spa Marvel as part of their water care program, and that they have to buy Spa Marvel from their originating<\/u> dealer; they cannot buy it from Amazon or a dealer down the street. Please keep this program in mind should you ever decide to get into the retail spa business.<\/p>\n The Spa Marvel Company does a lot of things that other manufacturers don\u2019t do to help to drive business to our retailers.\u00a0 As examples:<\/p>\n Does this all make sense?<\/p>\n If you have any questions, if you are going to be doing any special events (fall fairs, open-houses, etc.) at which Spa Marvel can be promoted, or if there is anything that we can do to help you grow your business, please reach out to me directly, I will help you.<\/p>\n Thank you for your business.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Ambient Temperature” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Your spa\u2019s pumps are driven by electric motors. The electric motors generate heat. The waste heat from the motor is transferred to the spa water to warm it up, which is a very efficient use of the waste heat, because your spa\u2019s heating element doesn\u2019t need to come on as often.<\/p>\n When the ambient temperature is high, tubs don\u2019t get a chance to cool down, but will continue to heat up from the heat generated by the motors.\u00a0 As an example:\u00a0 Assume your spa is set at 92 degrees, and it is 104 degrees outside most of the day.\u00a0 The tub temperature will continue to rise above the 92 degrees just from the waste heat. There is a safety mechanism that will shut the filtration setting off once the spa water gets to be X degrees more than what it is supposed to be, so that the water doesn\u2019t scald anyone.\u00a0 The pumps will not come back on until the spa cools down; which can take a few days if it is really hot out. In this time the water can often go \u2018off\u2019 and become cloudy.<\/p>\n When it is really hot out, prop the lid open with a pool noodle or tennis ball or rolled-up towel to allow the tub to ventilate and cool off, so that it doesn\u2019t shut down and cloudy water won\u2019t develop.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Bio Film \u2013 How to decontaminate and be rid of BioFilm” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n The contaminants that cause biofilm can be introduced to hot tubs in several ways.\u00a0 They can be introduced by bathers, by filling the spa with a garden hose that contained a contaminant, and sometimes spores can simply drift through the air and land in your spa water, eventually taking root in your spa\u2019s plumbing where they will develop to the point that they impair water quality. It is surprising how many brand-new spas arrive at a customer\u2019s house with biofilm already in the plumbing; so often that some spa manufacturers even address this in the owner\u2019s manual.<\/p>\n When spas are manufactured, they are filled with water and wet-tested to make sure that they don\u2019t leak. After they are tested, they are drained, but the plumbing is still wet inside. The spa is wrapped in shrink wrap and then warehoused and eventually shipped.\u00a0 The damp, dark, warm plumbing, with no airflow, is a hospitable environment for the growth of biofilm. Once the spa makes it to your backyard and is filled with water, the biofilm can then grow throughout the plumbing, impairing water quality and causing bather discomfort.\u00a0 Some of the signs of a spa infected with biofilm include persistently cloudy water, foaming, inability to maintain sanitizer readings, odours and rashes.<\/p>\n Draining and refilling a spa won\u2019t get rid of biofilm as it actually attaches to and builds up on the walls of the plumbing.\u00a0 And while the use of plumbing cleaners and purge products will remove biofilm from the walls of the plumbing, they will not denature the biofilm, and all it takes is one drop of water left behind after draining to re-infect a freshly filled spa.<\/p>\n To effectively rid a spa of biofilm, it needs to be decontaminated. To decontaminate you need to super-chlorinate the water with granular chlorine. (Granular bromine may be substituted.) Add chlorine at the ratio of 2.5 ounces per 100 gallons (or 75 grams per 400 litres) of spa water<\/strong>. Adding extra won\u2019t hurt.<\/p>\n For this treatment to be effective it is crucial that the chlorinated water is distributed throughout the entire plumbing system.\u00a0Ensure that diverter valves are midway and that all jets, valves, waterfalls, water features, and aerators are open and are subjected to the chlorine. If your tub has a drain next to the pump or at the base of the cabinet to which you can attach a hose to facilitate draining, ensure that some of the chlorinated water is bled through the drain<\/strong> at the onset of this procedure.\u00a0 This is very important to do because any built-in drains are a dead end in the plumbing and as such the chlorine will not naturally make its way down to that part of the plumbing, but the biofilm will.<\/p>\n Check the chlorine reading after 24, 48 and 72 hours.\u00a0 If at any of these intervals the chlorine is anything less than ridiculously high (if it shows less than the maximum on your test strips) treat the tub again with chlorine and start the clock over on the 72hour time period.\u00a0 Do not use the spa during the decontamination process.<\/strong><\/p>\n After 72 continuous hours of successful chlorination:<\/p>\n It is often difficult to determine if the problems in a hot tub are caused by biofilm or because of some other issue.\u00a0 A great source to help you make this determination is the water wizard app that can be viewed at spamarvel.com.\u00a0 If you still struggle, you can reach out to our support team by email at\u00a0 solutions@spamarvel.com<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n The Spa Marvel Company- Making sure that people enjoy their hot tubs!<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Bio Film \u2013 quick fix” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n The slippery vinyl is caused by biofilm. It’s not a big deal and easy to remediate. Using a cloth that is aggressive but not abrasive ( ie terry cloth, face cloth, etc.) wipe the slippery build up off of the vinyl. Then add sanitizer (bromine\/chlorine) at the ratio of 2 tablespoons (30g) per 250 gallons of water.<\/p>\n Going forward maintain your sanitizer levels between 3-5ppm to prevent the development of biofilm.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Blotchy black stains on fiberglass surfaces \/ Porosity” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Blotchy stains on fiberglass surfaces are caused by porosity (the porousness of the surface).\u00a0These stains are more common on spas made in China. The surfaces are gelcoat, rather than acrylic.\u00a0 The spots are plaque from the fiberglass.<\/p>\n It happens when air bubbles get into gelcoat during production and then over time chemicals eat away at organic material causing the stains.<\/p>\n I would recommend contacting your dealer and checking your warranty right away.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Can Spa Marvel be added at any point in to spa?” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Plumbing accumulates buildup; even the fresh water lines in your house get scaled up with calcium, lime and minerals over time.\u00a0 Hot tub plumbing also accumulates this type of buildup, and additionally collects body oils, chemical binders, detergents, lotions and other debris that have been introduced to the spa water.\u00a0<\/p>\n Spa Marvel has inherent cleaning and descaling properties. When it is added to spa water, it works its way through the plumbing and removes all of the buildup that is in the plumbing.\u00a0 As the buildup is removed it is introduced to the water and can cause all kinds of messes, such as odours, cloudy water, foaming and pH travel. To prevent this from happening you need to use Spa Marvel Cleanser in your old water to clean the plumbing prior to draining, refilling and beginning with Spa Marvel.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Cleanser – Why You Need To Use It” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n This is in answer as to why you need to use Cleanser first. Or if they didn\u2019t, why they can have water quality issues in the first 1-3 days of using Spa Marvel. Note- does not apply to a brand-new, never been used, spa.<\/strong><\/p>\n Plumbing accumulates buildup; even the fresh water lines in your house get scaled up with calcium, lime and minerals over time.\u00a0 Hot tub plumbing also accumulates this type of buildup, and additionally collects body oils, chemical binders, detergents, lotions and other debris that have been introduced to the spa water.\u00a0<\/p>\n Spa Marvel has inherent cleaning and descaling properties. When it is added to spa water, it works its way through the plumbing and removes all of the buildup that is in the plumbing.\u00a0 As the buildup is removed it is introduced to the water and can cause all kinds of messes, such as odours, cloudy water, foaming and pH travel. To prevent this from happening you need to use Spa Marvel Cleanser in your old water to clean the plumbing prior to draining, refilling and beginning with Spa Marvel.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n This is a follow up I sent to a customer who didn\u2019t use cleanser, and was still blaming Spa Marvel for being problematic.\u00a0 He had bad odours, but you can also modify this to reflect cloudy water too<\/strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n You added Spa Marvel to your tub, and the very next day the water smelled.\u00a0 Spa Marvel would have cleaned debris out of the plumbing that caused the odour, the filter would have sucked up a lot of the debris, and possibly even made the water hazy. There is no other explanation as to why your water went off in one day.\u00a0 (The upside to all of this is that your plumbing is now cleaner than it was when it was new and as a result, you\u2019ll experience stronger jets, quieter pumps and more efficient heating elements.)<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Cloudy Water Caused by Calcium Stearate” _builder_version=”4.17.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n Problem: <\/strong>Small white plastic-looking flakes\/flecks in the water that dissolve when you touch them between your thumb and finger, along with water that inexplicably and frequently goes cloudy, are indicative of a calcium stearate issue.\u00a0<\/p>\n Calcium stearate is a component used in the production of plastic plumbing.\u00a0 Around the year 2015 a plumbing manufacturer that supplies multiple spa manufacturers distributed a faulty product in which the calcium stearate leaches out of the plastic plumbing.\u00a0 The plastic plumbing is literally degrading, which causes the cloudy water and white flecks that you are experiencing.\u00a0<\/p>\n Solution:\u00a0 <\/strong>Replace the affected plumbing, if possible.\u00a0 If it is not possible to replace the plumbing, you will need to replace the spa.\u00a0<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=”Cloudy Water \u2013 10 Causes & Solutions ” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}” open=”off”]<\/p>\n For hot tub owners, there is nothing worse than having cloudy water! There are 10 causes of cloudy hot tub water and here are some tips on how you can correct and prevent them from occurring.<\/p>\n #1 Dirty Filters.<\/strong> Filters can only hold so much, and when they are full, debris stays in the spa water making it cloudy. Proper filter cleaning practices are essential to maintaining clear water. For detailed instructions on how to clean your hot tub filters you can view our video on filter cleaning, or email us for detailed instructions at solutions@spamarvel.com.<\/p>\n #2 Bather Overload<\/strong>. Four people in a hot tub is the equivalent of 200 people in a swimming pool. If bathers don\u2019t shower before using the spa, they are using it as a bathtub and introducing contaminants to the water which can easily overwhelm your spa and cause cloudy water. To minimize this from happening, insist that bathers shower THOROUGHLY before using your spa.<\/p>\n Changing the water is usually the fastest way to remedy cloudy water caused by bather overload. If that is not possible, increase filtration times, install clean filters, shock the water, use a water clarifier, and continue this regimen until the water clears. As the water becomes clearer, the filter will begin to become soiled and may require additional cleaning or replacement.<\/p>\n #3 High pH or Alkalinity.<\/strong> Water that has high pH or high alkalinity can quickly become cloudy, or may even come out of the tap looking hazy. Balancing the alkalinity and pH to proper ranges will clear the water.<\/p>\n #4 Metals in the water.<\/strong> When metals in the water such as copper and iron begin to rust, the result is discolored cloudy water that often appears green or yellow. To clear it, shock the water, wait a minimum of 24 hours and if the colour persists, shock the water again and wait at least another 24 hours. Repeat as necessary, multiple applications may be required.<\/p>\n
#7 Insufficient filtration times.<\/strong>\u00a0It takes time to filter debris from hot tub water. Make sure your spa is scheduled to filter for at least 6 hours per day, or if your spa uses a low volume hush pump, it should be programmed for the longest duration, preferably 24 hours per day if possible.<\/p>\n
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